‘I See Myself In You’ Courreges A/W 23

The first of the month came and Paris Fashion week opened up with Courreges, the collection was a mix of futuristic and modern elements, while still paying homage to the brand's roots in the 1960s.

Vogue Runway: Courreges A/W 23 LOOK 1

A swift history of the brand Andre Courreges was a French fashion designer who launched his own brand, Maison Courreges, in 1961. Prior to that, he worked under Monsieur Balenciaga for 10 years, specialising in cut and garment construction. Courreges was known for his futuristic and geometric designs, as well as his use of sequins. He emphasized wearability and conceptualized clothing that looked toward the future. He was also known for introducing oversized sunglasses and popularizing the mini-skirt, earning him the nickname "father of the mini." Courreges' approach to fashion was focused on style rather than just following trends, which is evident in his quote about his time at Balenciaga: "We weren't doing fashion, we were doing style." This philosophy is still important to keep in mind when assessing new collections from the brand.

Getty Images via Ullstein Courrèges creation circa 1965

Fast forward to now, it’s interesting to see how Nicolas di Felipe is interpreting fashion through a more introspective lens. By using reflective accessories and positioning mirrors in the Anahata region, known as ‘heart chakra’. He is inviting viewers to see themselves in others and to connect with their own emotions and inner selves.

Vogue Runway: Courreges A/W 23 LOOK 30

It's also worth noting that the end of the "streetwear" era on the runway of luxury fashion houses doesn't necessarily mean the end of streetwear as a fashion trend or cultural phenomenon. Streetwear has always been about a certain attitude and aesthetic that draws from youth culture and urban style, and this can continue to evolve and influence fashion in new ways. Streetwear is still transparent in this collection in hoodies, bombers and oversizing slouch styling.

Vogue Runway: Courreges A/W 23 LOOK 10 AND 25

It's interesting to see how Nicolas di Felipe is incorporating the house's motifs into his designs, such as the sequin co-ord pieces and reimagined gogo boots. The A-line dress and geometric tops also nod to the house's 60s designs, while incorporating modern touches like y2k elements and low-rise cuts.

Vogue Runway: Courrèges A/W 23 LOOK 35 AND 14

While the designs may not be revolutionary, it's clear that Nicolas has put a lot of thought into the nuances of the collection, creating a cohesive and fresh look for the house. It's always challenging to balance the history and legacy of a fashion house with modern design sensibilities, and Nicolas di Felipe seems to have done this successfully in his latest collection.

Overall, the collection seems to be a thoughtful and nuanced reflection of the house's history, while still incorporating modern elements to keep it relevant and fresh. As well as an approach to fashion that seems to be about creating a deeper connection between the clothes and the individual wearing them. This is a refreshing departure from the more superficial and consumerist aspects of fashion that often dominate the industry.

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