No Mere Shadow: Sarah Burton Steps Into Her Own at Givenchy

Photo courtesy of Givenchy

There were many ways I thought of starting this piece... I want to take us back a bit to those of you with this knowledge; you can skip this part, but…

Once upon a time, there was the house of Givenchy, created by Hubert de Givenchy, one of the key staples of 20th-century fashion. Moments such as the creation of what we now call the LBD (Little Black Dress) and his iconic collaboration with muse Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s are central to his legacy. Some of the lesser-known motifs of the brand include the Bettina Blouse. As part of Hubert's first collection, Bettina Graziani worked as both a muse and press agent for him. This collaboration inspired the design of Givenchy’s best-selling perfume, Amarige.

1) Hubert De Givenchy with Audrey Herburn Source: NY TIMES (https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/13/fashion/hubert-de-givenchy-audrey-hepburn-designer-muse.html); 2) Audrey Hepburn in ‘Breakfastt in Tiffany’ Source: The Movie (https://classiccriticscorner.com/audrey-hepburn-breakfast-at-tiffanys-outfits/); 3) Bettina Graziani for Givenchy wearing Bettina Blouse and pencil skirt Source: (https://www.flickr.com/photos/skorver1/6506773403/in/photostream) ; 4) Amarige Perfume Source:Givenchy (https://www.givenchybeauty.com/gb/p/amarige-F10100000.html?dwvar_F10100000_size=100ml&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC_T3nQwRn-zHWaBqxTh1VUlrroSa)

Givenchy’s work is also recognised for its clean architectural lines, cape gowns, monochrome elegance, and minimalist chic, with a touch of flowing gowns and intricate detailing when it comes to haute couture.

This leads us to a better understanding of the recent A/W 2025 show. I, for one, feel that the criticism from Alexander McQueen super fans bordered on the unwarranted. The comparison was inevitable, yet still ruthless. During her 26-year tenure at McQueen, beneath all of the comparisons and Alexander’s strong brand identity, Sarah Burton built her own artistic identity right before our very eyes—and most people completely missed it. Architecturally tailored blazers, which are also transformed into coats, with cinched waists and effortless touches of slits and fringing/frills, bring together the dichotomy of powerful architectural structures with a hint of femininity. The A/W 2025 show showcased all of these elements of Sarah's artistic identity, combined with the core motifs of Givenchy.

The first look felt like an introduction stamp, this is Givenchy 1952 interpreted by Sarah Burton. One of nine female creative directors out of 35 major luxury fashion brands may I add. The first look began full meshing, boot and big logo name across the chess, the model was bare but clothed. This was a stamp of introduction, nothing else or more to it.Perhaps, I’m looking more into this than what's intended however this is the emotional response of watching the start. 

Givenchy A/W 25 LOOK 1 Source: Vogue Runway 

Out of 52 looks, over 20 looks give or take have this cinched waist element, a vast difference from Givenchy  A/W 24. One of my personal favourite being look 34, it's in the way it carries elements of the brand’s recent historical input of Riccardo Tisci of black leather and streetwear element of leather ‘puffer jacket’ but with a twist, adding exposed zipping combines with it being on a high collar bone. This brings us back to a key motif of the ‘Bettina blouse’, which possessed a strong popping collar bone and cinched waist to create effortless chic whilst still being bold. 

Givenchy A/W 25 LOOK 34 Source: Vogue Runway

One of Sarah’s own motifs, a powerful architectural blazer, some with hints of slits, appears in over 17 looks. Standing out from the rest is Look 20, featuring a back-to-front blazer with a forward-facing slit along the clavicle. This is echoed in Look 42, a blazer and pencil skirt that, from a distance, could be mistaken for a dress, reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn's iconic LBD. The slit subtly reveals itself along the vertebrae as the model turns—just a little surprise. Look 44 brings the slit back, this time along the chest, offering a daring choice for consumers in the middle of conservative and innovators. Then we have Look 51, where the peekaboo inverted shirt element is at the hem of the blazer, not the collar. This is what truly embodies Sarah Burton’s artistic design.

1)Givenchy A/W 25 LOOK 20 ; 2)Givenchy A/W 25 LOOK 42 ;3) Givenchy A/W 25 LOOK 44 ; 4)Givenchy A/W 25 LOOK 51

Source: Vogue Runway 

I end this article with a reference to Sarah’s speech at The Fashion Awards 2023, where she said, "To always challenge yourself," quoting Alexander McQueen: "You have to know the rules to break them." This collection was exactly that—a display of knowledge combined with the self-challenge to create her interpretation of the best of Givenchy for this time period.