Tokyo James A/W 24

The man himself is back after a brief hiatus from showing last season due to the passing of his beloved grandmother, a loss reflected in his absence.

The pause is greatly applauded; too often, the hustle and work in this industry push many of us to the brink, even in times of loss. This move is further applauded for its nod to the importance of bereavement and taking the time to process before returning to fashion. Because when it all comes down to it, nothing is more important.

Now to the collection...

This collection was exceptional! Tokyo James, like some of his Nigerian designer counterparts this season (i.e., Tolu Cocker and Priya Ahluwalia), has truly, in my eyes, managed to complete the trifecta this season.

The magic that many of us African girls, boys, and those who are gender non-binary have been craving to see on the runways of London, Paris, New York, and Milan. The ability to truly and fluently combine the essence of geo-specific African-ess into high/luxury fashion seamlessly.

Tokyo James has been doing this to a certain extent; however, this time around, he tapped even further into his ancillary by showing us his range and adding women’s wear and refocusing on his tailoring strength. This could be a nod to the pause he took, reflecting on his values and the women whom he comes from and loves.

Tokyo James was able to extract elements from his Fall 21 collection, such as the play of the knit-like leather fabric created by his in-house team in Nigeria. As well as the small symbolic elements he had, like the Scotch bonnet pepper as hats. In this AW24 collection, he's done just that. One of the key looks for the women's wear (look 10) features jeans covered in African beads all at the front while maintaining the back of the jeans normal. The beads themselves are so quintessentially African, but they also signify a rite of passage of black womanhood, reflected in many facets of blackness, whether one is African or from the diaspora. The normal rear of the jeans is a perfect combination of African and Western culture. Denim is symbolic in the idioms of American fashion and a period of fashion in itself. Making the full denim beaded would have missed this strong marker and edge that is added by; The drop waist and ode to the Y2k trend. The cutout on the jeans gives us an edge required without doing too much. Full beaded denim would have been just that.

Source: Vogue Runway

The Tokyo James woman is a black woman, and it’s unapologetic in its essence. Choosing to open up the show with a green number dress that most of us Africans across the world can agree is something one of our aunts, mothers, or even grandmothers would wear and style alike. Following it up with still modest but nipple tapestry on top of the dress to touch on an element of sexiness without being crude. This play on his British background and mannerisms as well as Africa's modesty while still keeping with the current demand for sex appeal.

Look1

Source: Vogue Runway

Look 2

Source: Vogue Runway

We have yet to touch on the men’s. Following in his previous work of knit and integral weaving leather-like pants and styling it with an angora-like wool fabric. Sings to my stylist heart, styling soft material against "harsh"/strong material to find that beauty in the midst of it all.

This is one of the standout pieces and looks from the men’s side. (Look 16). The denim play on continues with the menswear, instead of the beads the angora like wool is utilised the soften the look and add layer.

Look16

Source: Vogue Runway

This collection is wearable while still maintaining that standout Tokyo James element; he’s become well known for. It's only a matter of time until he is handed the realm of a major fashion house, to allow him to showcase his abilities to the fullest extent.